We have all these high dollar toyhaulers now, but we still don’t have a high tech or easy way to level them. Sure, we have been doing the wood and blocks “thing” for awhile, but you would think with all the technology out there that a user-friendly device would be available. With that being said, Ultra-Fab sent us an electric leveling/stabilizing system (Ultra Power Twin II) to install on a toyhauler for review. The system mounts worm type jacks on the four corners of the trailer with an electric motor on each one which stops side-to-side and front-to-back movement. Then, you can use individual switches on each motor to raise and lower them or run wires from each motor to a remote control command module (RC-9). The RC-9 is a 9 channel Radio Frequency (RF) Remote Control with 30amp high current wired outputs. If you do get the RC-9 then you have the ability to use a remote control up to 50 feet away that allows you to stand wherever you want around the trailer to operate the jacks. This is handy because you can stand either in the trailer so you can watch your leveling bubble or outside so you can see exactly what is going on as you are getting level.

The first thing we did for the install was get all the parts Ultra-Fab sent to us and lay them out to see what everything looked like and how it went together. After looking at everything we went under the trailer (which was a fifth wheel) to see how we could attach this system. Right away we saw some issues. In the front we had the landing gear and the propane lines. In the rear there was the spare tire and the existing hand crank stabilizers. The rear was easy; we removed the spare tire for now, knowing that we would have to find a spot to relocate it later. Then we unbolted the stock stabilizers and put them over to the side. (I knew someone would buy those later because people are always bending them.) After looking at the front for a while, and because it was a fifth wheel that had separate motors for each of the landing gear jacks, we decided to leave that alone and run the electric from the existing motors to the RC-9. This allowed us to use the remote control on all four corners. If your fifth wheel trailer only has one motor running your landing gear, then you would either have to change it to have a motor for each side or remove it to install the Ultra-Fab system in the front too. I suppose you could leave the stock landing gear and mount the Ultra-Fab gear behind them if there was enough room. On a tag trailer you would remove the stock hand crank stabilizers and find a way to reroute or reposition everything out of the way.

We measured the trailer from the outside of the left I-beam to the outside of the right I-beam on the chassis. Then we put together the adjustable mounting track assembly, which included the worm gears, legs and oversized pads to that distance only to find out that the predrilled holes in the mounting brackets would hit right in the middle of the I-beams. We widened the assembly so that the holes would be in a spot that we could drill through the I-beam and end up with enough space that the nuts and washers would fit. Next, we slid the assembled bracket under the trailer and manually lifted the legs up so that the assembly was holding itself in place against the I-beams. We had to move it around some so it was square with the trailer, then we drilled the half inch holes through the frame using the predrilled holes in the bracket as a template. There was one spot where the rear entry steps were in the way of the predrilled hole, so we had to drill one hole through the bracket and the I-beam over to the side of the step. With the mechanical part of the install done, we mounted the electric motors to the end of the right and left worm gear mounting brackets (using the supplied nuts, bolts, and washers).

Now the electric part starts. First, we had to find a place to put the RC-9 command module. Ultra-Fab says not to mount it within six feet of any motors, keep it away from bundles of wires, other antennas or RF devices. The kit also comes with a 10 foot, 6 gauge power harness with a 60 amp inline fuse to use for the RC-9. This means that we had to find a good spot within 10 feet of the house batteries to mount the module which we found in the left front storage compartment. The 5th wheel was 40’ long and we needed two wires from each jack motor to the RC-9, so we measured and calculated that we needed 100 feet of two different colors of 8 gauge wire. We got lucky and found a roll of 8 gauge two wire (red and black) at my local electronics store that would be easier to pull from the back to the front of the trailer then two individual wires. We also picked up some 8g butt connecters and 3/16” round 8g wire ends (spending just over a $125.00 on wire and connecters). We hooked the right motor up first which was the farthest from the RC-9. Then with the other end of our 100’ spool of wire we hooked up the left motor. Now we had both ends of our wire hooked to the rear motors. Next, we ran the right motor wire over to the left side of the coach where the other motors wire(s) were. We used zip ties to hold it in place against the rear frame. The wire was pulled tight out behind the rig (remember it is still all one wire at this point). By pulling the wire tight we knew where the center of the wire was going to be. Next, we routed the wire along the I-beams of the chassis up to where we were going to go through the floor to get to the command module. Once again we used zip-ties to hold everything in place and also used split loom in any spots that we thought the wire could get worn by rubbing on metal. The floor already had a drainage pipe running through it with enough room for our wires next to it. That was one less hole that had to be drilled. Now with the wire all the way to the module we cut off the extra which we used to wire the front two landing gear motors. Next, we wired up the RC-9 per Ultra-Fabs wiring instructions and mounted it in the cabinet with the antenna pointing down, away from any interference.

We walked around the toyhauler with the remote control to see if we had any spots where the remote wouldn’t work. We found out as long as we stayed close to the trailer all was good. The remote was cool because after you get everything unloaded, if the trailer settles, all you have to do is hit a button and it will be all good again. My trailer has an 18,000lbs. GVWR and the Ultra-Fab can only get it level when it is on semi level land, within a few inches of being level, it will not lift the tires off the ground for you. On the plus side, the stability of the Ultra Power Twin II is much better then stock. The trailer doesn’t move at all once the big foot pads are set on the ground.

This install was one of the hardest because so many things have to be relocated. Overall, I am happy with the Ultra Power Twin II setup, it is one of those things that should come as an option on factory trailers so the consumer can have this benefit from the beginning. To check out everything that Ultra-Fab has available for your toyhauler go to www.ultra-fab.com or call them at 574-294-7571.

NOTE: Different trailers each come with different manufacturer specifications. Always consult your owner’s manual or the vehicle manufacturer before adding any after market parts.

- THM